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Caroline Groves

A guest post by Rena Breed from My Favourite Shoes.*

Groves title

When I first saw photos of Caroline Groves’s shoes, I was very impressed. They are breathtaking, beautifully made and so rich in detail. If I were a shoe designer, these are exactly the kind of shoes I would love to make!

Groves Oxford Croc

Exclusive Clientele
The shoes are custom made by hand in Caroline’s studio in the Cotswolds in the UK. She has built up her own exclusive clientele who can get their heart’s desire with her designs, and her skill has earned her fans among international jet-setters. Of course this exclusivity comes with a price … one that most of us can’t afford: the starting price of the bespoke footwear is 1,800 pounds sterling ($2700). Still, it’s nice to know that after the famous – and already overly expensive – luxury brands, you can still go one step higher.

This video shows the craftsmanship, imagination, passion, and attention to detail that goes into every pair of shoes. The only thing it doesn’t show is the hours of work that goes into creating the design:

 

Workshop in London
Caroline spends part of the week in her studio on Jermyn Street in Foster & Sons, one of the oldest custom shoemakers in London. It’s here that she meets with her private clients. At the first appointment, she measures their feet and discusses the style of the design as well as the materials to be used.

Groves Details

For the second appointment, Caroline will create a preliminary last and may, if necessary, make any changes. After that she will get to work on the shoes. A third and final appointment may be necessary before the finished shoes are delivered. This process means that each pair of shoes is truly unique.

Groves Arts and Crafts Movement

Vintage Style
Caroline’s shoes are fanciful, constructed and finished with the finest leathers, embroidery, and accessorized with details like silver buckles. Her designs reveal her love of vintage styles, which is not surprising since her favorite designer is Salvatore Ferragamo – particularly his designs from the 20s and early 30s.

Groves Vintage

Caroline gets inspiration from the beautiful patterns of different types of leather such as crocodile, and will travel to Italy or France to choose the best hides. She has also delved into the world of leather processing techniques and experimentation with leather.

Groves Red and green heels

Arts and Crafts Movement
Caroline’s family comes from Chipping Campden in the UK and her ancestors were avid followers of Charles Robert Ashbee, one of the founders of the Arts and Crafts Movement. Caroline’s grandfather was a long-time member of this movement and her grandmother was a silversmith.

Handicraft
Caroline started off her career working for a saddler in Gloucestershire where she learned leathercraft techniques. In order to support her two children, she decided to send her resume to a shoemaker and he ended up being her business partner for the next 15 years. He gradually moved toward orthopedic shoemaking, but Caroline had always been more interested in the artistic side of the trade and she decided to concentrate on making bespoke shoes.

Groves Pewter oxford

If you’re like me, I‘m sure you’re longing for these shoes. If I ever decide to become a shoe designer, I definitely want to intern with Caroline.

To see more of Caroline Groves’s designs, check out her website.

*This is the first of what I hope will be many guest posts by Rena Breed from the Dutch site My Favourite Shoes. Her blog is like a sister site to Lust for Shoes and has amazing articles about shoe designers and the footwear industry in Europe. Most of the articles on her site are in Dutch, so I have translated this one into English. My Dutch is not great, but I did my best to do justice to her fabulous article. Even if you don’t speak Dutch, I’d urge you to check out her website; it’s worth a look for the photos alone.

Sole Sisters

Sole Sisters title

Sole Sisters is a film project that documents women’s lives through their shoes. Documentary filmmaker Cynthia Salzman Mondell of Media Projects and Executive Producer Erin Prather Stafford are compiling a collection of stories submitted by women from all over the world and they plan to use those stories as the narrative of the film.

Some of these stories are available on the Sole Sisters website, and I was surprised by how compelling they are. Everything is covered here, from adventures in hiking boots to performances in pointe shoes. Many of the themes are about how often a woman’s choice of shoes can reveal hints about her true selves and provide an opportunity to let her style fly a little higher than usual.

With my taste in footwear, of course I loved the stories where shoes serve as acts of defiance against convention: the bride who decided to wear a pair of bright blue shoes with her white wedding dress; the woman who, as a 14 year old, bought a pair of red high heeled pumps in defiance of her mother’s insistence that they weren’t appropriate for her age. These women might follow the rules … but only above the knee.

Blue wedding shoes

My favorite story was from a woman in her 50s who had gone through a long debilitating illness and several surgeries. After her extensive recovery, putting on a pair of leopard print pumps trimmed with red suede helped her gain back some lost self esteem in a way nothing else could.

Leopard print pump

I was intrigued by the documentary as soon as I heard about it, but once I read the stories I was even more excited about the project. I recently interviewed Ms Mondell to find out more about it.

LFS: This is such a great idea for a film. What was the inspiration?

CM: When my Mom was stricken with pancreatic cancer, my sister Ann and I found brand new red high heels in her closet. We told Mom she had to get better so she could dance in those shoes. For a few hours she was lucid and communicated with us. Although cancer eventually claimed her life, those shoes allowed her to dream and to hope. I wondered what it was about those shoes that had the power to give us back our Mother for even a brief time. Then I noticed how much shoes meant to other women. So this is a journey for me. And what I am discovering are deep, emotional stories that unite women from around the world.

LFS: What are you planning to include in the film?

CM: Sole Sisters will dance through women’s lives telling their stories with interviews, animation, and music. The film will journey through the stages of a woman’s life from the unsure wobbly steps in her first pair of baby shoes to a sassy strut in her new red stiletto heels and to her slow shuffle in worn bedroom slippers. Women’s shoes are a symbol of sexuality, empowerment, status and personality. They represent “affordable” art and fashion. They define a woman’s individuality – who she is and who she wants to be.

Erin Prather Stafford , the executive producer for WONDER WOMAN: The Untold Story of American Superheroines is now working with me. She keeps expanding my thinking. This film is definitely going to morph into a play and book. I was taking baby steps, and now we are running with it.

LFS: The stories that are available to read on the Sole Sisters website are full of so many vivid and emotional experiences relating to shoes. Were you surprised by the intensity and variety of the responses you received?

CM: At first I was surprised, but I have produced other female oriented films like The Ladies Room. This is just what the title says—women talking in restrooms. There is a different culture in ladies rooms as you know. Women will say anything because there are no male rules to hold them back. They talk about sex, their bodies and their relationships with complete strangers. So no, I guess I wasn’t surprised. But I am learning how much shoes mean to a woman’s identity.

LFS: There is one story about a woman whose boyfriend gave her a pair of heels for her birthday. He also gave her other gifts – including jewelry – but the fact that he picked out a pair of shoes that were both her size and her style seemed so startlingly intimate and thoughtful. Why do you think heels have such a strong appeal for both women and men?

CM: Women feel powerful and sexy in heels. Men find women in heels sexy. They lengthen the leg and are very attractive.

LFS: Are you one of the shoe obsessed?

CM: Actually, I am not shoe obsessed. I have my own style and never like to wear anything anyone else is wearing. Every day, I go to my closet and look at my clothes and shoes, like I am painting a canvas. And I put on shoes that will make me look like I feel that day. Shoes definitely help my attitude. I love unique looking ones… like with heels that are triangular and easy to walk on. I have a favorite pair of boots that I bought from a woman travelling in an old bus. She was selling boots that she painted to pay for her cancer treatments. These boots mean a lot to me, and I love wearing them.

LFS: There are a number of stories that mention the allure of red shoes, and in fact the Sole Sisters logo is a red high-heeled pump. Why do red shoes seem to hold so much power and do you have any in your closet?

CM: Red is my favorite color. My grandmother had red couches, rugs, artwork, flowers and one pair of red shoes. So I guess I get that from her. Red is a strong color and a happy color. And yes, I have red shoes…red boots and red heels.

LFS: I love the idea of the shoe confessionals, the private booths that you created for the Dallas Museum of Art and a few other locations around the city, for women to record their shoe stories. I’ve read that there were actually waiting lines to use them. Are any of the confessionals still there?

CM: I had this crazy idea for a Shoe Confessional…but actually, I had no idea what a confessional was except what I have seen in the movies. I wanted to collect stories, and I wanted to be part of the DMA’s Jean Paul Gaultier outreach events.

The Shoe Confessional was a spirited community project. Designer Jen Mauldin designed it with a number of people working on it- filmmakers, sound engineers and assorted volunteers. Real Estate businessman Jim Greenfield donated space on Travis Street to build it. We had no money—we recycled the wood shelves in the building we were working in. We even used found nails. It was gratifying how many people worked on it and how many hours they contributed. The booth takes 3 people to put up. So it is really an installation that needs to be in one place for a few days or more. Women and men loved going in there and telling their stories. It is intimate, beautiful and fun. Shelle Bagot Sills, the former VP of Neiman’s went in there with her girlfriends during the Neiman Marcus Stiletto Strut and said it was the best time she had had in a long time. That was the general response. Bringing joy to other women makes me happy.

One of the shoe confessionals

Shoe confessional

LFS: Are you still accepting women’s stories on the website?

CM: Yes, Yes. Yes. I would love to hear from other women and girls.

LFS: You are about to start a campaign on the Kickstarter website that will accept donations to help fund the Sole Sisters film, and there will be some wonderful Mother’s Day rewards available for people who contribute. What are some of the things you are offering?

CM: One of the most creative prizes of our Kickstarter is the Special Mother’s Day Card. It was designed by a California artist and it is awesome. Also, the exclusive Home Viewing Party Kit will be a big hit with anyone who is a fan of shoes and fashion.

LFS: When can we expect to see Sole Sisters in our local theater?

CM: In 2014.

You can become a Sole Sister:

To help get this project funded the filmmakers are planning to ask for donations through the project funding site Kickstarter. The Kickstarter campaign will start in the next couple of weeks, and I’ll post the details as soon as they are available. There will be some amazing gifts available to donors, and your contribution will help make this documentary a reality.

For more information about the project or to submit your own shoe story, visit the Sole Sisters website they also have a Facebook page.

To learn more about the filmmakers, check out the Media Projects website and Erin Prather Stafford’s site.

Treasure from the Fall/Winter 2013 shows … seriously, I think there might actually be treasure here


Dolce and Gabbana shoes

I don’t usually write about the major runway shows, but I couldn’t resist the new Dolce and Gabbana fall/winter collection. It really shouldn’t work: there is copious use of gold leaf and velvet, artificial flowers, paste jewels, and I’m sure there is even some capodimonte. It’s excessive in every possible way, but it’s Dolce and Gabbana and they (almost) always manage to keep their ostentation on this side of vulgar.

D and G’s FW 2013 collection is Byzantine splendor. The most charming theme is the cage heel design filled with flowers. This theme includes platforms, sandals, and pumps with heels both low and high. I hardly ever say this, but I actually think the low-heeled version works the best with this theme.


Dolce and Gabbana heels

There are some fabulous wedges in this collection with vertigo inducing heights. All that surface area on the heel is used for a shameless amount of embellishment. They managed to fit the entire bust of the Empress Theodora on that wedge on the left. Genius, really…


Dolce and Gabbana wedge heels

The rest of the collection has more conventional silhouettes. The uppers on most of the shoes have been kept very simple; jewel toned velvets showcase the extravagant detailing on the heel. On these designs, the heel is chunky to allow the beaded/sequined/mosaic/braided/jeweled/etc patterns more space.


Dolce and Gabbana shoes

Dolce and Gabbana shoes

There are a few stilettos and here, in the absence of heel space, the detailing spreads to cover the entire shoe. These designs seem almost conventional – if rather flashy – in comparison to the other shoes in the collection.


Dolce and Gabbana stilettos
 

You can see more of the shoes, and the rest of D & G’s collection here.

Coming soon…

… Anastasia Radevich.

Goodbye to 2012


Jean Paul Gaultier shoes




The bar has been set very high for footwear, so it was no surprise that 2012 was another great year for shoe designs. Here are some of my favorites, starting with the gorgeous little bootie above. It’s by Gaultier, of course; who else would have the wit and audacity to create that?

Pierre Hardy continues to do amazing things at Balenciaga:


Balenciaga shoes




Aperlai’s Alessandra Lanvin has gotten better every year since her 2009 debut:

Aperlai shoes




And Iris van Herpen keeps stirring things up at the already groundbreaking United Nude:

Iris van Herpen for United Nude shoes




Many designers seemed to have opted for the “What global recession?” style and didn’t even attempt to edit the glamour. These included Dolce and Gabbana

Dolce and Gabbana shoes




…Gaetano Perrone:

Gaetano Perrone shoes




…and Alexandre Vauthier:

Alexandre Vauthier shoes




Christian Louboutin didn’t wow me with his 2012 collections, except for the few distinctly vintage styles he sprinkled in amongst the towering platforms. These little beauties are elegant and perfectly proportioned. I’d love to see more of this style from him in the future:

Christian Louboutin shoes




Nicholas Kirkwood did a lot with lush floral printed fabrics this year, but I thought his best designs were the ones with geometric patterns. I love his exuberance, but I love it even more when he reins it in just a little bit:

Nicholas Kirkwood shoes




Jason Wu created some lovely designs this year; my favorites were his variations on the Oxford:

Jason Wu shoes




And several of my favorite designers did nothing to disappoint with their 2012 collections. Casadei is still managing to find innovative takes on the wedge:

Casadei shoes




Dsquared2 is still providing us with lovely confections for our feet:

Dsquared2 shoes




And Chrissie Morris is still reminding me that I need to win the lottery so I can afford to buy every single shoe she has ever designed:

Chrissie Morris shoes




Happy New Year, everyone, and please support independent shoe designers.

Miu Miu


Miu Miu heels

I wanted to take the time to remind us all of just how many incredible shoes have been brought to us by Miuccia Prada in her Miu Miu label. Miu Miu was launched in 1993 and was aimed at a younger, edgier woman. For the past 20 years, the brand has brought us season after season of memorable designs with their boundary-pushing mix of traditional and unconventional. Always luxurious, always beautifully made, and always fun….


Miu Miu shoes

So here are the highlights. I’ll go back 5 years and start with the gleaming loveliness of her Fall Winter 2007 collection. The styles are conservative, so it would be easy to miss how audacious these shoes really are. Multicolored patent leather with extensive broguing, they should be unacceptable; but the colors are so well chosen and the play on traditional almost grandmotherly styles make the shoes both witty and chic. And that little gathered frill on the shoe on the right…gathering patent leather? Honestly, who does that? It’s possible only Miu Miu could get away with it.


Miu Miu shoes

It’s a little hard to see in the images above, but the heels are covered in stripes of the same leather as the upper. It’s a lovely detail, and shows you the excellent craftsmanship. Patent leather is completely unforgiving to even the tiniest of variations in stitching, but there is none of that here. And of course the broguing is neurotically symmetrical. Awesome.


Miu Miu pump




2008

2008 was all about playful heel silhouettes. The collection for Spring/Summer introduced us to the teacup mary janes, adorable with their baroque curlicues and gold trim. The platform and square-tipped heel give the shoes an element of burlesque that keeps them from being too cutesy.


miu miu tea cup shoes

For those who need more of an edge, that same season provided the tea cups’ darker alter ego:

miu miu heels




And for everyone else, there were plenty of the Baby bear “just right” options, characterized by cut-out detailing, luxurious materials, and rich colors:

miu miu heels




On a personal note, Spring Summer 2008 also provided me with one of those shoe-that-got-away events. I fell in love with the gorgeous harlequin booties from that season, but they were crazy expensive and I decided to wait until they went on sale. Time got away from me and by the time I checked back they were completely gone, so of course those shoes took on mythic proportions in my head and I convinced myself life is not the same without them….

miu miu harlequin




The 2008 Fall/Winter collection carried on the memorable heel silhouettes, this time with muscular sculptural curves.

miu miu footwear




2009

Miu Miu changed gears for Spring/Summer 2009: the silhouettes were simplified, but the textures were ramped up. Python, lizard, and snakeskin abound, fearlessly mixed, patterned, and colored. The lushness of the materials was balanced by the simplicity of the styles.


miu miu shoes




I loved the insanely high sling back wedge heels from this collection, and don’t even get me started on the gorgeous little gathered satin detail on the heel on the left ….

miu miu wedge heels




And any reference to this season has to include a pair of jeweled heels. This wasn’t the first time Ms Prada designed such things, but the concept did seem to reach a dizzying height of glam in this particular collection…

miu miu jeweled heels




The Fall/Winter collection for 2009 got some criticism for being a bit dull. Perhaps it wasn’t the most exciting – there was quite a lot of beige – but there were some noteworthy designs. I really liked the heavily beaded satin heels; the contrasting trim crossing over the top of the foot is a lovely detail. Pairing the shoes with matching beaded socks created a great look.

miu miu shoes




Those same socks also played nicely with other shoes in the collection:

miu miu socks




This season included one of my favorite Miu Miu shoes of all time: a double strapped, brogued, peep-toed mary jane made from two-tone metallic leather. Wowzers.

miu miu mary jane



2010

Another design 180 happened in the Spring/Summer 2010 collection, and things got a lot more flamboyant. The most recognizable designs from this season were the printed satin platforms.


miu miu platforms




These designs got a lot of attention, particularly from younger fashion bloggers who loved them. They are exciting and fun, but not really to my taste; and the fact that the fabric print doesn’t match at the seams drove me nuts. Damn, cute though…

miu miu platforms




The season also included lots of solid color versions of the satin mary janes, both with and without the platform. (I’m not bothering to show you those, I’m sure you can imagine them). And while I wasn’t drawn to the satin platforms, I did love the leather platforms from this collection. Similar silhouettes to the ones above, but with leather uppers, more restrained detailing, and a late 70s disco feel. Fabulous little jute platform on the turquoise sandal…

miu miu heels




And of course there are a few of the outrageous jeweled heels.

miu miu jewel heels




Okay, on to Fall/Winter 2010 and I admit to developing an unhealthy obsession with this collection. There were two main themes, metal flowers:

miu miu shoes metal




…and the patent leather bows…

miu miu patent shoes




This collection was so charming and feminine, without being too girly. I wanted every single shoe.

miu miu shoes



2011

The bows theme was all grown up in Spring/Summer 2011 and got a job at the Follies Bergere.


miu miu strap shoes




Sexy and strappy, this collection had bold color combinations and striking geometric patterns.

miu miu shoes




Fall/Autumn 2011 introduced us to the glitter booties. These didn’t wow me when I first saw them, but I completely changed my mind once I saw them in person and it was love at…well, I suppose it would be second sight.

miu miu boots




Each bootie has a glittery layer and a velvety suede layer, and gives the effect of a sandal worn over tights…only exciting and glamorous. I’ve seen variations on this idea before, but never so well done or with such innovative styling.

The rest of the collection included a variety of lovely shoes that were no less exciting than the booties for being non-glittery.


miu miu shoes




And it is in this season that the Miu Miu jeweled heel ascended to the next level. It is no longer a luscious Baroque confection, but has instead become something sleek and modern.

miu miu jewel heel



2012

And so we arrive at the Spring/Summer 2012 collection, and an overwhelming number of fantastic shoes. I know you shouldn’t pick favorites, but I’m going to, and here they are:

The Witchipoo cowgirl style (my description, that’s probably not how Ms Prada refers to them):


miu miu boots




Witchipoo la Douce:

miu miu boots




…and Witchipoo in the boudoir:

miu miu mules




The evolution of the jeweled heel also continues in this collection with these beauties:

miu miu jewel shoes




The Summer Resort collection included a number of lovely designs with printed fabrics, but the best by far were the taffeta gingham sling backs. Twist my arm, already…

miu miu gingham slingbacks




Fall/Winter 2012 continues the imagination overload of the first part of the year. First we have the studs and the strut-your-stuff silhouettes:

miu miu stud shoes




We have the love children of Elton John and Huggy Bear:

miu miu platforms




Preppy disco:

miu miu sequin flats




All business up front and a party in the back:

miu miu jewel heel boots




And bows are revisited to provide one of my favorite looks of all, the sexy librarian:

miu miu bow shoes




I’ve not included the Spring/Summer 2013 collection, because they are all over the internet at the moment. However, I will say they carry the torch of invention and fun for the Miu Miu label. Thank you, Ms Prada, I look forward to another 20 years of your fabulous designs!

Building a shoe….

Architect Shahram Azizi has made a series of fast sketch videos and posted them on YouTube. They are all fascinating, but my favorites are, of course, the sketches of shoes. Here is the one he made of Julian Hakes’s Mojito shoe:

 

 


One of the Youtube commenters asked why anyone would go from architect to shoe designer. Why indeed? I’ve read a lot of compelling explanations for the relationship. I don’t know that there is any definitive answer, but there is undoubtedly a very strong connection between the two. Many of the most innovative shoe designers started out their careers as architects and have blessed us with beauties like these:

United Nude designed by Rem D Koolhaas:


United Nude shoes




Esska designed by Souraya Karami:

esska shoes




Ryan Haber:

ryan haber shoes




Mihai Albu:

mihai albu shoes




Zaha Hadid for Lacoste:

zaha hadid for lacoste shoes




…and Zaha Hadid again for Melissa Plastic Dreams:

zaha hadid melissa plastic dreams




Gaetano Pesce for Melissa Plastic Dreams:

gaetano pesce melissa plastic dreams




Mohop designed by Annie Mohaupt:

mohop shoes




Bryan Oknyansky:

bryan oknyansky shoes




Kei Kagami:

kei kagami shoes




And finally architect hall-of-famer Frank Gehry, who was asked back in 2009 to design a shoe for French shoemakers JM Weston. Here is the result:

frank gehry shoes

Not a progressive design, to be sure, but it is a beautiful reworking of a classic style; and of course it has the immaculate craftsmanship of a JM Weston.

Please support independent shoe designers…and architects who design amazing shoes!

Dutch Design Week 2012



If you love shoes, October 20 – 28 is a great week to be in Eindhoven, because that’s where the Dutch Design Week is being held this year.

Anyone who regularly reads this site knows I can get a little overexcited about Dutch footwear design. For such a small country it has produced a disproportionate amount of incredible shoe designers, and their designs are among the most innovative and exciting in the world.


Dutch Design Week 2012

I’m finished rhapsodizing, back to Dutch Design Week. Here are two of the exhibits for shoe lovers:

Watch Our Steps: This is a newcomer to the event, organized by Dutch footwear innovation and education center SLEM. New technologies and sustainable ideas are themes that will be highlighted.


SLEM Dutch Design Week

This exhibit will feature the best graduate works by footwear design students from all over the world, and one lucky graduate will win the Global Footwear Design Award. The judges for this award form an illustrious list: designers Jan Jansen, Charles Bergmans, and Rene van den Berg;
Liza Snook, founder of the Virtual Shoe Museum and Inge Specht, Curator of the Dutch Leather and Shoe Museum.

Deniz Terli Dutch Design Week




Anna Korshun Design: Footwear designer Anna Korshun develops innovative production techniques for the footwear industry with a goal to streamline the process of shoe making. This exhibit will showcase some of the ideas she has developed:

Anna Korshun Dutch Design Week

If you are anywhere near the Nethelands next week, you really won’t want to miss this.
For more information about Dutch Design Week, check out their website.

Participating in Watch Our Steps:
Top photo: Giulia Tanini, Polimoda International Institute of Fashion and Design, Italy
Boot w/SLEM logo: Jozefien Vandermarliere, Academy of Fine Arts, Sint-Niklaas, Belgium
Pink and black heel: Deniz Terli, ArtEZ Institute of the Arts, Netherlands

Please support independent shoe designers!

Please support independent shoe designers!

Finally!


Julian Hakes mojito shoe



I’ve received so many emails asking when and where Julian Hakes’ mojito shoe will be available to buy and I finally have that information. You can now get these fabulous shoes via mail order through Cloggs, an online shoe retailer in the United Kingdom.

The shoes range from about $250 to $280. The prices on the site are in British pounds and the sizes are European (see conversion chart below), but they will ship all over the world. Western European customers outside the UK can use their sister site Cloggs.eu to get all prices in euro.


international shoe conversation chart