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Lidija Jovanovic is one of a growing number of independent shoe designers in Belgrade, Serbia. She trained as a theater costume designer, and you can see that influence in her footwear. There is a dramatic flair to many of her designs, although they never seem costumey.

Ms Jovanovic studied Applied and Dramatic Arts in Belgrade, but she credits her time as a student at Central St Martins in London for introducing her to shoe design. She took that interest back to Serbia, and in 2005 she started a fashion studio with the intention of producing small runs of shoes. The emphasis would be on quality, highly distinctive design, and local production.

The shoes are all handmade in Belgrade, giving Ms Jovanovic an extraordinary amount of interaction with the production process. That’s an incredible luxury for independent designers; it means they know exactly what their workroom is capable of creating. This knowledge combined with the ability to produce small collections allows the designer to take a lot of chances in terms of design.

The proximity of the workroom also means that special requests can be accommodated. Customers are able to ask for a particular design in a different color, and Ms Jovanovic will even let them change up the style. That’s so fabulous, and probably accounts for some of the fierce devotion of her customers.



Her success is also the result of the unique combination of influences she brings to her designs. Her theater background provides a rich source of historical styles, which elevates her shoes above prevailing trends. Mid century glamour is a recurring design theme, and one of my favorites….







Dance – specifically tango – is another influence she is continuously exploring. Shoes designed for tango are distinctive, with the same smoldering appeal as the dance itself. The heels should be at least 2 inches high, and can go up to 4 inches. They need to stay securely on the foot during the rigors of the tango so there is generally a strap at the ankle; the heel cage (the part of the shoe behind the heel of the foot) is most often fully closed rather than a sling back design…



Ms Jovanovic has also cited architecture as an influence, specifically Antonin Gaudi, and in particular his Sagrada Familia.



I think it is possible to see how the drama and organic forms that characterize Gaudi’s architectural extravaganza have been translated into footwear by Ms Jovanovic.



There are a couple of recurring themes in her design aesthetic that are particularly fun. The first is texture, and she has found a perfect way to express this by using embossed leather. This is leather that has had a pattern pressed into it, like you see in mock croc, mock ostrich, etc; but Ms Jovanovic also chooses abstract patterns to give a textural depth to the surface design. It creates a beautiful effect.







The second theme is vibrant use of color. Ms Jovanovic is not afraid to pair bright colors and patterns. The effect is exciting and dynamic enough to tempt even my black-obsessed soul.

About a year ago she started designing shoes for men, and they are just what you would expect: original, witty, and with a definite historical influence.

It is frustratingly difficult to buy Lidija Jovanovic footwear unless you can get to her shop in Belgrade, or to Clementi in Rotterdam, Holland. You can buy many of her designs through Serbia’s iShop. The site is in Serbian, but Google translator will make it just about possible to navigate. Of course the prices are in Serbian dinar, but they take most credit cards. Alternatively, you can go to the Studio Lidija Jovanovic website. You can’t order shoes directly through the site, but several sources have indicated that if you email her with a request you may be able to make a purchase via mail order. I can’t confirm this personally, but I’d say it’s worth a try.

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